Namaskar from Punjab, India

Hello my precious friends and family. I'm at a local Internet cafe in Ludhiyana in the state of Punjab, just a few hours away from Delhi where I've been staying with the sweet family of my friend Rajeev Kalia whom I met here at Zaadz. I call the children by their nicknames because they're easier to pronounce; the 14-yr. old girl, Money, and the 7-yr. old boy, Dishu. His lovely wife, Schvetha (sp?) is a tiny little thing, and like the rest of the family, incredibly hospitable. They all the speak English, some more smoothly than others, and I have been treated like a queen. Rajeev told me before I came that it was his duty to take care of me, that I "need not bother with anything, that I trust in his experience." That I did, and he was surely not joking.

They are not a wealthy family, money-wise, but they are truly some of the richest people I have ever met. They do not fear lack, but rather give and offer everything they have without thought of the repercussions. Rajeev is not one to accept any money in return, although I have tried and tried to offer it. I've hardly spent a penny of my own. He changes the subject and waves his hand every time I open my wallet.

They have a humble home with 2 bedrooms and a small kitchen. Fresh water, but not heated--although twice already they have boiled pots of water for me on the portable gas stove so that I could bathe from a bucket, just big enough to sit only my butt inside. Even still, it was heavenly.

It is very dirty and dusty here, and the inside of my nostrils are coated with it. I can't get over the driving. Absolutely the most insane thing I've ever experienced. The red lights mean nothing at all. There is only one factor involved... the horn!! You just keep driving, keep weaving, and keep blowing the horn.  That way people know you're coming and they have to move out of the way if they don't want to get hit.  The streets are covered with 3-wheeler covered taxi's, motorbikes, bicycles, and small cars. In general there are no street lights and all the highways are 2-lane only.  You'll see cows, buffalo, dogs... roaming the streets wild, and no one pays any attention to them. It's pretty nuts. I'm yet to see the snake charmers, but Rajeev says you can see them on the side of the road every now and then. He saw one the other day, but I missed it in all the chaos.

I attended a pre-wedding ceremony where we presented the family members with money, ate pulses, paneer, peas, califlour and rice, and had money thrown up in the air above us--signifying their happiness and abundance--as we danced. No one touched it, only danced around it and on top of it as if it wasn't there. I am getting used to everyone staring and pointing at me. They have no idea how to react when they see me so they just STARE... if I keep smiling and hold their gaze, they usually smile back but it takes a good minute or two. Then they can't stop smiling and waving!

I have visited beautiful temples, fed the cows that are sacred to them, and bathed in the holy waters. I have seen the Golden temple in Amritsar with the kitchen that feeds more than 3,000 people per day free of charge. As you approach the temple in bare feet with mandatory head covering, all you can hear is the clanging of the plates being washed outdoors. A long line of people work in harmony together, passing the plates down the line to be cleaned and reused, and this goes on all hours of the night.

Yesterday we went to the border of Pakistan where they held a patriotic ceremony honoring the neighboring countries. There is a gate in between the countries with a small strip of earth known as "no man's land"--a neutral piece owned by neither country. They gates open as the soldiers on either side mirror each other in unison, marching and stomping and kicking their legs with power and pride; calling out and shaking with delight as the crowds of both countries sit across from each other singing and cheering. It only lasts a few minutes, but the people flock here, running with excitement, cameras snapping galore. It's like watching a football game between two rivals that only takes place once a decade.

We ate at the house of Schvetha's sister and brother-in-law, a very successful family who owns a body shop there in Amritsar. Their house was huge with a stained glass dome in the ceiling, 5-6 bedrooms, 100% marble floors, sprial staircases, 12 foot ceilings and a dressing room & toilet in every room. While we're on the toilet subject, some flush, some don't. Most have a little spray nozzle hidden under the seat that squrits water on you for clean-up afterwards. There is no toilet paper in sight, but Rajeev bought me some that I could carry around with me. Sometimes there is no toilet, only a ceramic hole with the floor with gradiated places for your feet. I'm happy as long as I have some TP and some hand sanitizer.

We met with Rajeev's cousin, also named Rajeev, who owns a factory that makes field hockey sticks and gear. When he learned that I had been cold the whole time I'd been here, he took my measurements and made me a jacket with his brand on it that very evening. It's clear that these people are very service oriented and incredibly loyal to friends and family. In fact the car that Rajeev is using to drive me around is one from the Body shop. They lent it to us to use during this trip (we sometimes cover 300-400+ km in a day) since Rajeev only owns a motorbike. The day he picked me up from the airport, he had been traveling over 14 hours, just to go and get that car and then make his way to me... not to mention the 6 hour drive back to his house that night!! I am just stunned, dumbfounded, grateful, speechless... all at once.

Tonight we leave his home city after shopping at the market to head up to the mountains. He tells me of a sacred place we'll see there where flames of fire naturally shoot out of the rock. We'll stay the night in a temple/shrine, then head to Rishikesh tomorrow to see the vibrant culture there and of course, the Ganges River.

Because I head down south through Mumbai (Bombay) to Goa on Wednesday, I won't get to see the Taj Mahal until I head back through Delhi on my way out to Bankok when I meet Kraig there just before Christmas. Rajeev had two dresses made for me in the traditional style, a bright red and turquoise. Then I chose a black one that is being made for me now, which I'll have mailed down to my friend Kris's address in Kerala. They even had one made for Kraig. I won't give away the surprise by telling you how it looks but I can't wait to see him in it! It's been fun wearing such different clothes... definitely part of the experience. I'm excited to go shopping for Christmas presents today as there are so many beautiful fabrics, colors, and uniquely-Indian items that I would love to share with everyone back home.

As I had heard, very few people here actually practice yoga. They all know about it, and as soon as they learn that I am a teacher, they start asking me questions about how to heal certain ailments and pains. They have a great respect for it, the way we do for regular aerobic exercise and a healthy diet, but yet they shyly admit that they don't practice even though they know they should. (o: Very similar to the Americans in that way.

I am off now... haven't had any luck yet with the Internet phone, but will keep trying. At least I'll send pics and love whenever I get the chance. I love you all so much and I feel you with me each moment. Please take care of yourselves and enjoy a LONG, hot shower for me!!

Namaste,

Kris