Holding it down!

Hello my loved ones. I flew out of Delhi on Wednesday; went through Mumbai (Bombay) to come down south and meet my friend Murray (who is traveling around the world for 7 months) in tropical Goa. Somewhere along the way I caught the dreaded Indian bug, and ended up spending a lot of time puking in the toilet over the last 24-48 hours. Throbbing head,achy body... fluids coming out both ends. Not pretty.

But hallelujah... now I'm back in the saddle and sooo happy to be holding down food and water today. Murray was a champ throughout all of it and effortlessly made me feel so comfortable and relaxed. Luckily she was tired as well from all the long travel so she kept me company as we slept in for most of the day (since I'd kept both of us up all night the evening before).

We're on Vagator Beach for one week to study Ashtanga Yoga with Rolf and Marci Naujokat, two very well-known German teachers. We're staying at this quaint little motel & vegetarian restaurant--Bean Me Up Soya Station which is owned by an American woman who has lived here for the last 27 years. It's right next to the Devavaldi shala where we'll be practicing 6-8 times per week. I had to sit it out today as it was my first day in recovery, but I can tell by just observing the one class that I'm going to learn a lot from my time with these amazing and humble world-traveling yogis.

I was so ready for FOOD today that I had whole wheat pancakes, fresh squeezed orange juice, eggs, and "soysage" for breakfast--oh, and of course chai. The Indians have chai 5-6 times per day, and so I fit right in... I've been known to do the same thing at home. (Rajeev told me it's not chai tea... it's just CHAI. He laughed at me and said chai means tea, so saying "chai tea" means saying "tea tea." He got a kick out of that.) I must admit it was so comforting to have American food again. I love spicy food, paneer, and all types of curry, so I don't mind the Indian cuisine at all. In fact, all of you who know me are very aware that Thai food makes up 80% of my diet. But after being sick, the American comfort foods somehow brought me closer to you and all that makes me feel safe and secure.

It is very lush here, and the nature sounds--monkeys, birds, stray cows and dogs--make it extra special, especially from within the yoga shala and it's light blue-green mosquito nets. The weather is warm and moist, but there's a nice breeze... the temperature is just perfect. Cows just roam the streets here, and they come right up to you for food. We fed one on the beach today our left over pear cores, and after that she just wouldn't leave. She just stood there patiently waiting beside us while we laid in the sun. I think she finally left when another guy lured her away with more treats. We took pictures as she stuck out her long tongue to take the food right out of his hands. Kodak moment.

Most everyone rides motorbikes because they're super cheap. Murray and I will be renting one starting tomorrow for 150 rupees/day. That's just barely more than 3 dollars. Our hotel room costs about 500. Not too shabby. You do the math. One probably won't break the bank visiting here. Although I have to say the people on the beach--and within the shops on the way to the beach--are pretty pushy with their sales tactics. Of course you find this anytime you travel overseas to a touristy location, but it seems really extreme here. I don't mind it so much, but rather find it funny. They all say "It's your lucky day. For me to give you this price you are very lucky, darling. Madam, this is a very nice piece. I will give it to you for 150 rupees. Or if you don't like that then you name your price. In fact, buy two and I'll give you a special deal." They start at a yound age, too. Most of them are 12-18 years old, or that's my guess anyway. They lay on the guilt pretty thick. But it's all part of the experience here in the Motherland.

In general the people are incredibly sweet and they go out of their way to help anyone in need. Time and time again when Rajeev stopped to ask for driving directions they would always drop what they were doing and give clear, enthusiastic explanations. He even locked the keys in the car one time, and I'll be damned if it wasn't less than 3 minutes before a man walked up, saw our situation, and quickly came back with a "jimmy thingy" to unlock the door via the window. And then yesterday evening I had gone out with Murray to call my husband Kraig via Internet phone at the cyber cafe. When it came time to walk home (Murray went on to the beach from there to watch the sunset) I was so weak and nauseous that I just couldn't manage to pull my own body weight. A local guy pulled over with his motorbike and asked me if I was okay. I told him I was sick and he said, "Where are you staying? I will take you home... or do you need to see a doctor, madam?" So I hopped on back and he drove me safely back to the hotel. I paid him 40 rupees, although he didn't ask for any money.

One thing I love about the Indian people is their little head jiggle. You know how we Westerners generally NOD in agreement... or whenever we're letting someone know with body language that we are hearing them, right? Well they jiggle their heads side to side, the way the women do in the traditional dance... with their necks shifting from shoulder to shoulder.  In our culture this body language could be wrongly translated to mean a very sarchastic "WHATEVER!" or maybe an "I'm not so sure about that." But to these sweet people--as Rajeev so clearly explained to me--it is an artistic and enthusiastic "YES!!" And so far most of the waiters, taxi-drivers, shop owners, and community people have dawned these perky head jiggles along with a smile and bright eyes! Lots of love in this place.

And on that note I am out... until next time. Love to you all. Be happy, be well.

Namaste,

Kris

p.s. Promise to send pics next time!!